This is for people who want to go beyond customizing their topsheet graphics. And delve into the science of designing their own personal ski shape, it may not be for everyone. But for the some who always wanted to say “this is my ski and I designed it!”.
At ScottyBob’s SkiWorks we try to make the process as simple as possible, for the client to get their dream ski made. Unlike other companies that make you fill out forms for hours. Asking you questions from “What do you like to have for breakfast?” to “what color is your underwear?”. Or companies that make you fill out spreadsheets that could make your head spin, with a lot of numbers that keep on changing every time you put in a new one.
At ScottyBob’s we keep to the old engineering saying “Keep It Simple Stupid” or KISS. Here there is only six things you have to decide on to get your own ski designed and then we do the rest of the work!
Step One: Telemark or Alpine?
Do you want a Telemark Ski or an Alpine Ski?
This is very important, as discussed in the design page of this website. The Bobtail design is very dependent on what ski discipline you are going to use it for.
Step Two: Ski length
What length of ski do you want? This is a question that only you should be comfortable in answering. We get a lot of people asking us about the size of the ski they should get. To be honest, we haven’t skied with you. All we can do is talk to you about how you feel about different lengths that you skied. Some worry about the Bobtail design is going to feel longer or shorter than a symmetrical ski. Don’t worry about it, if you ski a 177cm ski now a 177 BobTail is going to feel the same lenght.
So the first step is to pick the length of the ski in centimeters.
Step Three: Picking Two of Three Dimensions
There are three dimensions we use when designing a ski they are: Sidecut Radius, Waist Width, and Tip Width.
Sidecut Radius – Is the theoretical circle when the ski is put on edge. The smaller the number the smaller the circle, like wise the larger the number the larger the circle. For example, a 14 meter ski is very quick turning and always wants to be on edge. Where a 30 meter ski is for long turns and doesn’t mind if you run them flat.
Waist Width – Is the narrowest part of the ski. You have to ask your self what you are looking for in a ski here. A ski with a 77 mm waist is going to be quick edge to edge, but it will have little float in powder. Where as a 110 mm waisted ski will be hard to get on edge, but will have a lot of float in powder.
Tip Width – Is the largest width of the tip. A large tip width can help the ski in powder to ride up on the snow and be more stable in busting through the crude.
In step three, your job here is to pick ONLY TWO of the THREE dimensions. Why you ask? Because one will have to remain a variable and will be calculated by our state of the art program. So if you pick a ski with a 16 meter sidecut and a 96 mm waist the tip dimension will be calculated. Or if you want to pick the waist of the ski to be 78 mm and the tip to be 125 mm the sidecut radius will be calculated.
At this point, your are done designing your ski. You don’t have to be a rocket scientist to get a ski that you have been dreaming of , that’s why we use the KISS system.
This year we are going a couple of steps further than we have done in the past, we added steps four and five into the equation. Now you can pick out the shape of the tips and tails of the skis.
Step 4: Tip Shape
(Free on custom dimension skis, $50 on standard skis)
We are offering four different tip shapes for custom dimensions this season and here we will discuss the pros and cons of each.
Pros – looks really cool and chicks dig them.
1.When skiing, if the uphill ski gets on the downhill tip. It’s a flat surface and the uphill ski will just remain at rest on that surface, so you will have to concentrate on removing the uphill ski for the down hill ski your self.
2.Because of the sharpe angles in the tip shape, we have to use a three piece edge to make the shape. There fore the corners of the tips do not have any edge protection.
Pros – Again looks really cool and chicks dig them .
1.Pointed tip helps the uphill ski slide of the downhill tip easily
1.Looks a little geeky
Classic tip –
Pros : nothing really, Just our Classic tip
Round Tip –
Pros : A lot of surface area to help climb out of the powder
Cons : Same as the flat tip, the uphill ski can get caught up on the downhill ski.
Step 5: Tail Shape
(Free on custom dimension skis, $50 on standard skis)
1.The skis can stand up with less chance of falling over
2. Metal edge is inserted to prevent base peel up when sticking the skis into the snow
3.Easier to attach skins on the skis
1.The inside of of the tail kicks can ride up on each other during skinning and turning
1. The skis can stand up with less chance of falling over
2.Metal edge is inserted to prevent base peel up when sticking the skis into the snow
3. Easier to attach skins on the skis
4.With the cut on the tails there is less chance of the tail kicks to ride up on each other
1.It depends if you like the looks or not
1.Classic round tail shape
1.Skis tend to fall over when stood up on end(Might kill your cat)
2.Hard to attach skins on skis
3.No metal edge to protect ski base when sticking into the snow
So here are the five steps to design you own custom dimensioned ski.
Step 1 : Is it an Alpine or Telemark Ski?
Step 2 : What is the length of the ski you want?
Step 3 : Pick TWO of THREE dimensions(Sidecut Radius, Waist Width, Tip Width)
Step 4 : Pick Tip Shape
Step 5 : Pick Tail Shape
And now you are done and the rest of the work is up to us to bring your dream ski into existence!